Silybum Marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Aging Without Side Effects

Overview

Journal J Cosmet Dermatol

Specialty Dermatology

Date 2024 Dec 18

PMID 39692756

Authors

Cloe Boira

Emilie Chapuis

Laura Lapierre

Jean Tiguemounine

Amandine Scandolera

Romain Reynaud

Affiliations

Soon will be listed here.

Abstract

Background: Vitamin A, or retinol, is one of the most effective antiaging molecules, but it presents issues with photo-sensitivity and irritation. Alternatives are emerging, but have so far been less effective.

Objective: Here, we present a Silibum marianum extract (SME) as a retinol-like ingredient providing both safety and efficacy. SME was compared to the reference compound, retinol, and to the main alternative, bakuchiol.

Methods: Skin explants from a 58-year-old donor were treated with pure retinol (0.1%), bakuchiol (0.2%), or SME (0.8%). After 5 days, collagen and hyaluronic acid levels were analyzed. A placebo-controlled study involving 57 volunteers was also conducted, with products applied twice daily for 56 days. Results were measured by AEVA-HE and VISA.

Results: Levels of collagen III were significantly increased by SME, by 23% and 16% compared to bakuchiol and retinol respectively. Compared to bakuchiol, SME treatment increased hyaluronic acid production by 36%. In clinical tests, SME had a significantly stronger anti-wrinkle effect than bakuchiol-reducing the number of wrinkles on the forehead by 21% and their circumference by 17%-producing effects similar to retinol, and better than bakuchiol. In the self-assessment, 43% of volunteers reported discomfort while using retinol compared to 0% for the SME formulation. By enhancing levels of collagen III-the youth collagen-and hyaluronic acid in the skin, SME paves the way for the maturation of collagen I fibrils and skin plumping.

Conclusion: With its stronger efficacy compared to bakuchiol and enhanced safety profile compared to retinol, SME may be the next generation of natural alternatives to retinoids.

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