Fruit Extract Microemulsion for Cutaneous Depigmentation: Evaluation Using a 3D Pigmented Skin Model

Here, we verify the depigmenting action of Pouteria macrophylla fruit extract (EXT), incorporate it into a safe topical microemulsion and assess its effectiveness in a 3D pigmented skin model. Melanocytes-B16F10- were used to assess the EXT effects on cell viability, melanin synthesis, and melanin synthesis-related gene transcription factor expression, which demonstrated a 32% and 50% reduction of intra and extracellular melanin content, respectively. The developed microemulsion was composed of Cremophor EL/Span 80 4:1 (/), ethyl oleate, and pH 4.5 HEPES buffer and had an average droplet size of 40 nm (PdI 0.40 ± 0.07). Skin irritation test with reconstituted epidermis (Skin Ethic RHE) showed that the formulation is non-irritating. Tyrosinase inhibition was maintained after skin permeation in vitro, in which microemulsion showed twice the inhibition of the conventional emulsion (20.7 ± 2.2% and 10.7 ± 2.4%, respectively). The depigmenting effect of the microemulsion was finally confirmed in a 3D culture model of pigmented skin, in which histological analysis showed a more pronounced effect than a commercial depigmenting formulation. In conclusion, the developed microemulsion is a promising safe formulation for the administration of cutite fruit extract, which showed remarkable depigmenting potential compared to a commercial formulation.