Natural Substances for Prevention of Skin Photoaging: Screening Systems in the Development of Sunscreen and Rejuvenation Cosmetics

Overview

Journal Rejuvenation Res

Specialties Geriatrics
Physiology

Date 2017 Jun 30

PMID 28661208

Citations 26

Authors

Vladimir Kostyuk

Alla Potapovich

Ahmed R Albuhaydar

Wolfgang Mayer

Chiara De Luca

Liudmila Korkina

Affiliations

Soon will be listed here.

Abstract

Solar broadband UV irradiation is commonly regarded as a major causative reason for cutaneous photoaging. The pro-aging molecular pathways and cellular targets affected by UVA+UVB light in human skin have been extensively investigated. Notwithstanding growing knowledge in mechanisms of photoaging, research and development of clinically efficient, nontoxic, and sustainable topical preparations providing full physical, chemical, and biological photoprotection still remain a great challenge for pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. In this study, we are proposing a panel of the in vitro methods for preselection of natural photoprotective substances with high photostability and low phototoxicity able of absorbing a broadband UVA+UVB irradiation (physical sunscreen), reducing UV-related overproduction of free radicals and loss of endogenous antioxidants (chemical protection), and attenuating UV-induced cytotoxicity and immune and metabolic responses (biological protection) in primary human epidermal keratinocytes and immortalized human keratinocyte cultures. Our data showed that secondary metabolites biosynthesized in plant cells in response to UV irradiation, such as phenylpropanoids and their glycosylated metabolites, aglycons and glycosylated flavonoids, and leontopodic acids, hold the best promise for complete natural topical prevention of photoaging and rejuvenation of photoaged skin. Meristem plant cell cultures elicited by solar simulating UV could be the most environmentally sustainable biotechnological source of polyphenols with combined photoprotective and antiaging properties.

Citing Articles

Protective effects of tiger milk mushroom extract (xLr®) against UVB irradiation in DAF-16 anti-oxidant regulation.

Rangsinth P, Sharika R, Sillapachaiyaporn C, Nilkhet S, Chaikhong K, Verma K J Tradit Complement Med. 2025; 15(1):73-83.

PMID: 39807264 PMC: 11725124. DOI: 10.1016/j.jtcme.2024.11.004.

Effects of Plant Meristem-Cell-Based Cosmetics on Menopausal Skin: Clinical Data and Mechanisms.

Korkina L, Kharaeva Z, Shokarova A, Barokova E, Mayer W, Trakhtman I Biomolecules. 2024; 14(9).

PMID: 39334942 PMC: 11429794. DOI: 10.3390/biom14091176.

Synergistic delivery of hADSC-Exos and antioxidants has inhibitory effects on UVB-induced skin photoaging.

Fu Y, Xie J, Zhang W, Zhang X, Zhang X, Xu M Heliyon. 2024; 10(15):e34321.

PMID: 39144947 PMC: 11320485. DOI: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2024.e34321.

The use of natural extracts with photoprotective activity: a 2015-2023 patent prospection.

Oliveira A, de Souza Batista D, de Castro T, Alves I, Souto R, Mota M Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2024; 23(5):853-869.

PMID: 38613600 DOI: 10.1007/s43630-024-00559-w.

Microencapsulated Bilberry and Chokeberry Leaf Extracts with Potential Health Benefits.

Kuzmanovic Nedeljkovic S, Radan M, Cujic Nikolic N, Mutavski Z, Krgovic N, Markovic S Plants (Basel). 2023; 12(23).

PMID: 38068615 PMC: 10707773. DOI: 10.3390/plants12233979.

References

Poon F, Kang S, Chien A . Mechanisms and treatments of photoaging. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2014; 31(2):65-74. DOI: 10.1111/phpp.12145. View

Dembitsky V . Astonishing diversity of natural surfactants: 5. Biologically active glycosides of aromatic metabolites. Lipids. 2005; 40(9):869-900. DOI: 10.1007/s11745-005-1449-2. View

Perez-Sanchez A, Barrajon-Catalan E, Caturla N, Castillo J, Benavente-Garcia O, Alcaraz M . Protective effects of citrus and rosemary extracts on UV-induced damage in skin cell model and human volunteers. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2014; 136:12-8. DOI: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2014.04.007. View

Moyal D, Fourtanier A . Broad-spectrum sunscreens provide better protection from solar ultraviolet-simulated radiation and natural sunlight-induced immunosuppression in human beings. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2008; 58(5 Suppl 2):S149-54. DOI: 10.1016/j.jaad.2007.04.035. View

Pallela R, Na-Young Y, Kim S . Anti-photoaging and photoprotective compounds derived from marine organisms. Mar Drugs. 2010; 8(4):1189-202. PMC: 2866482. DOI: 10.3390/md8041189. View

Korkina L, Pastore S, De Luca C, Kostyuk V . Metabolism of plant polyphenols in the skin: beneficial versus deleterious effects. Curr Drug Metab. 2008; 9(8):710-29. DOI: 10.2174/138920008786049267. View

Sayre R, Agin P, Levee G, Marlowe E . A comparison of in vivo and in vitro testing of sunscreening formulas. Photochem Photobiol. 1979; 29(3):559-66. DOI: 10.1111/j.1751-1097.1979.tb07090.x. View

Korkina L . Metabolic and redox barriers in the skin exposed to drugs and xenobiotics. Expert Opin Drug Metab Toxicol. 2016; 12(4):377-88. DOI: 10.1517/17425255.2016.1149569. View

Martincigh B, Ollengo M . The Photostabilizing Effect of Grape Seed Extract on Three Common Sunscreen Absorbers. Photochem Photobiol. 2016; 92(6):870-884. DOI: 10.1111/php.12652. View

10.

Kostyuk V, Potapovich A, Stancato A, De Luca C, Lulli D, Pastore S . Photo-oxidation products of skin surface squalene mediate metabolic and inflammatory responses to solar UV in human keratinocytes. PLoS One. 2012; 7(8):e44472. PMC: 3431355. DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0044472. View

11.

Avila Acevedo J, Espinosa Gonzalez A, De Maria y Campos D, Del Carmen Benitez Flores J, Hernandez Delgado T, Flores Maya S . Photoprotection of Buddleja cordata extract against UVB-induced skin damage in SKH-1 hairless mice. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2014; 14:281. PMC: 4131034. DOI: 10.1186/1472-6882-14-281. View

12.

Maier H, Schauberger G, Brunnhofer K, Honigsmann H . Change of ultraviolet absorbance of sunscreens by exposure to solar-simulated radiation. J Invest Dermatol. 2001; 117(2):256-62. DOI: 10.1046/j.0022-202x.2001.01425.x. View

13.

Livak K, Schmittgen T . Analysis of relative gene expression data using real-time quantitative PCR and the 2(-Delta Delta C(T)) Method. Methods. 2002; 25(4):402-8. DOI: 10.1006/meth.2001.1262. View

14.

Marrot L, Belaidi J, Lejeune F, Meunier J, Asselineau D, Bernerd F . Photostability of sunscreen products influences the efficiency of protection with regard to UV-induced genotoxic or photoageing-related endpoints. Br J Dermatol. 2004; 151(6):1234-44. DOI: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2004.06173.x. View

15.

Scharffetter-Kochanek K, Wlaschek M, Brenneisen P, Schauen M, Blaudschun R, Wenk J . UV-induced reactive oxygen species in photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Biol Chem. 1998; 378(11):1247-57. View

16.

Korkina L . Phenylpropanoids as naturally occurring antioxidants: from plant defense to human health. Cell Mol Biol (Noisy-le-grand). 2007; 53(1):15-25. View

17.

Herrmann G, Wlaschek M, Bolsen K, Prenzel K, Goerz G, Scharffetter-Kochanek K . Photosensitization of uroporphyrin augments the ultraviolet A-induced synthesis of matrix metalloproteinases in human dermal fibroblasts. J Invest Dermatol. 1996; 107(3):398-403. DOI: 10.1111/1523-1747.ep12363384. View

18.

Mejia-Giraldo J, Winkler R, Gallardo C, Sanchez-Zapata A, Puertas-Mejia M . Photoprotective Potential of Baccharis antioquensis (Asteraceae) as Natural Sunscreen. Photochem Photobiol. 2016; 92(5):742-52. DOI: 10.1111/php.12619. View

19.

Ramakrishna A, Ravishankar G . Influence of abiotic stress signals on secondary metabolites in plants. Plant Signal Behav. 2011; 6(11):1720-31. PMC: 3329344. DOI: 10.4161/psb.6.11.17613. View

20.

Korkina L, Mayer W, De Luca C . Meristem Plant Cells as a Sustainable Source of Redox Actives for Skin Rejuvenation. Biomolecules. 2017; 7(2). PMC: 5485729. DOI: 10.3390/biom7020040. View